WHY IS THE “SIT” SO IMPORTANT?
By Louise Thompson Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA ©®™)
Teaching a young pup or even an older family dog to sit reliably on command is probably one of the most important lessons a puppy or dog will ever learn!
WHY?
· When owners arrive home – when visitors appear, or if the dog/puppy is excited, he cannot jump up at people, if he is in the “sit’ position.
· If he is doing something the owner disapproves of – he will stop immediately and cannot continue misbehaving if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he runs away from his owner or bolts to chase the cat/kids on bicycles etc – he cannot continue if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he is showing aggression to someone or something – it cannot go any further, if he is in the “sit” position.
· There are numerous behaviours that can be interrupted/redirected with a “sit”
· All pups and dog should be taught to sit, whilst there collars and leashes are being put on before going for a walk or training class!
· If an owner teaches his puppy nothing else in his entire life but a robot like “sit” on command, they will have an easier dog to live with.
TEACHING THE “EASY” SIT:
POSSIBLE “SIT” PROBLEMS:
1. When the dog sits he is facing the wrong way:
The dog wants to swing around to face the owner and is unhappy sitting on the owner’s left hand side.
The handler should not use force or the leash to get the dog/pup into the correct position..
The handler should not use his/her fingertips or hands to force the dog into the correct position.
The handler should never lose patience or raise his/her voice!
Solution:
a) Use a physical barrier to restrict the dog’s movement. Or if indoors use one of the corners of the room to limit the dogs’s opportunity to “back” away.
b) With the owner kneeling and the dog on the left hand side - wedge the dog between their forearm and left leg – limiting the dog’s options.
2. The “hand shy” dog:
This is a result of unintentional learning and is caused by thoughtless grabbing. Dogs soon learn avoidance and to dodge out of their owners hands.
Occasionally caused by lack of contact and inappropriate punishment, it is more often caused by ignorance and inappropriate rough play / roughing up the dogs face. Inappropriate discipline in the form of face hitting (sometimes as a result of annoyance). It may also be caused by over enthusiastic facial petting and praise, which pups and dogs find extremely intimidating. When the cause of hand shy dogs and puppies is pointed out to owners, they often are horrified and feel extremely guilty.
Handlers should use slow deliberate hand movements, and if ever necessary to move or physically manipulate the dog, (for example to insist on a straight sit,) instructors should ensure that the handlers use the stiffened flat palm of the hand – never allow handlers to curve the end of their fingers!
3. The “leash pulling” handler:
Handlers who over-use the leash are very common. This mindset usually comes from antique training methods that were based on correction and punishment.
Problems resulting from over use of the leash:
Solution:
WHY?
· When owners arrive home – when visitors appear, or if the dog/puppy is excited, he cannot jump up at people, if he is in the “sit’ position.
· If he is doing something the owner disapproves of – he will stop immediately and cannot continue misbehaving if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he runs away from his owner or bolts to chase the cat/kids on bicycles etc – he cannot continue if he is in the “sit” position.
· If he is showing aggression to someone or something – it cannot go any further, if he is in the “sit” position.
· There are numerous behaviours that can be interrupted/redirected with a “sit”
· All pups and dog should be taught to sit, whilst there collars and leashes are being put on before going for a walk or training class!
· If an owner teaches his puppy nothing else in his entire life but a robot like “sit” on command, they will have an easier dog to live with.
TEACHING THE “EASY” SIT:
- An easy way to teach him to “sit” on command is by the use of a food lure or his favourite toy as a motivation. Have the pup on his collar and leash for control. If performing the exercise standing you can put a foot on the end of the leash, so that both hands are free). If sitting,the leash can be tucked under a knee etc. Sit on the floor, holding his toy/treat in your right hand, and if possible have the dog/pup on your left hand side, or facing you. For later training it is a good idea to perform as many of these exercises as you can, with the dog/pup on your left hand side, as in later more formal training he will have to learn to “heel” on your left hand side.
- Hold the treat parallel with the dogs nose, making sure that he is focused on it (try this only on an empty stomach.) Now very slowly, lift your hand up and move it backwards (into the dogs face) keeping the treat at licking distance, attached to the dog’s nose. Do not move your hand too quickly or the dog will bounce around and loose interest. The dog in his effort to reach the food will automatically go into the “sit” position
- Hold the food at the appropriate angle to keep him in the “sit” position for a few seconds while he is licking the treat simultaneously repeating the word “sit” with a smile and lots of verbal praise (don’t touch too much or you will excite the dog and he will move!) Release the dog and let him finish his treat with lots of verbal praise.
POSSIBLE “SIT” PROBLEMS:
1. When the dog sits he is facing the wrong way:
The dog wants to swing around to face the owner and is unhappy sitting on the owner’s left hand side.
The handler should not use force or the leash to get the dog/pup into the correct position..
The handler should not use his/her fingertips or hands to force the dog into the correct position.
The handler should never lose patience or raise his/her voice!
Solution:
a) Use a physical barrier to restrict the dog’s movement. Or if indoors use one of the corners of the room to limit the dogs’s opportunity to “back” away.
b) With the owner kneeling and the dog on the left hand side - wedge the dog between their forearm and left leg – limiting the dog’s options.
2. The “hand shy” dog:
This is a result of unintentional learning and is caused by thoughtless grabbing. Dogs soon learn avoidance and to dodge out of their owners hands.
Occasionally caused by lack of contact and inappropriate punishment, it is more often caused by ignorance and inappropriate rough play / roughing up the dogs face. Inappropriate discipline in the form of face hitting (sometimes as a result of annoyance). It may also be caused by over enthusiastic facial petting and praise, which pups and dogs find extremely intimidating. When the cause of hand shy dogs and puppies is pointed out to owners, they often are horrified and feel extremely guilty.
Handlers should use slow deliberate hand movements, and if ever necessary to move or physically manipulate the dog, (for example to insist on a straight sit,) instructors should ensure that the handlers use the stiffened flat palm of the hand – never allow handlers to curve the end of their fingers!
3. The “leash pulling” handler:
Handlers who over-use the leash are very common. This mindset usually comes from antique training methods that were based on correction and punishment.
Problems resulting from over use of the leash:
- A shy puppy that is constantly pulled on the leash when walking or being worked will result in a dog that is likely to lag and be a slow worker.
- If the pup is confident and bouncy – it could result in teaching the pup that it is acceptable to pull and have tension on the leash.
- The pup learns that he only has to be obedient and comply with his handlers instructions when on leash! The minute the leash/collar is removed the dog becomes selectively “deaf” and disobedient!
Solution:
- If the area is safe and escape-proof – remove the leash.
- Tie the end of the leash to the handler’s belt or moon / treat bag.
- Let the instructor or a friend or family member hold the leash whilst the handler is working the puppy.
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