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FOTD TRAVEL SICKNESS & FEAR OF CAR SPRAY SUGGESTED BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATIONS |
FOTD BEHAVIOUR SPRAY - TRAVEL SICKNESS & FEAR OF CAR - SUGGESTED BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATIONS
In both these areas, the use of the Avalon Pure Travel Spray really impacts and helps not only to reduce any vomiting, drooling, panting, it also lowers the dogs stress levels which results in the dog being able to withstand the car travel. As the use of the spray is cumulative, so too is the experience for the dog and you will find that one trip with no vomiting, will be the start of multiple trips with no vomiting. What is recommended however is that you keep the journeys short initially and gradually build up the time period. We have provided basic modifications for dogs that get car sick as well as further modifications for dogs that are fearful of getting into the car as well.
If the dog shows signs of stress while traveling i.e. restless, heavy panting, drooling, then spray above the dog again. As above, it is recommended that car journeys are kept short and you slowly build up the dog’s tolerance to them.
What can be done without behaviour modification?
In addition to using the Spray, I find the following useful:-
What I have seen, is that different methods work for different dogs, so in addition to the spray, try them out, one at a time with your dog and see what works – more often than not the spray will do the trick but in cases of severe car sickness, other tools may have to be used.
Dealing with Dogs that have fear of the car
If your dog has always been happy in the car and suddenly stops wanting to get in, you could be looking at a physical concern, such as difficult to jump in easily (or jumping out) due to a problem in the body. First see if placing an object big enough for the dog to both jump up into the car, and out again will assist. If a situation like this is occurring, I would suggest a vet visit to rule out any medical condition. Additionally I find that with older dogs if I put a rubber type material where it sits the dog is happier, as it has a firm surface under its feet and if your dog will tolerate it, condition the dog to being in a car harness which will make it feel secure as well.
Starting Point
Here we are going back to scratch and starting to change the dogs association with the car from being a fearful one, to one that is rewarding.
Make the time in the car an exciting and fun time for the dog. Put in a blanket or car seat cover and feed the dogs meals in the car (car is parked of course). Give the dog a favourite chew toy such as a ong or Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude, to get stuck into and ONLY let the dog have this when it is in the car.
You have to go in stages with this exercise and firstly get the dog used to sitting in the car and enjoying the experience. Depending on how stressed the dog gets in the car, you could be dealing with a dog that goes into panic when it is even near the car, or one that only gets ill when the car starts moving. Whatever the situation start right at the beginning and get the dog to associate being in the car with wonderful things such as the bone or chew toy mentioned above. Initially leave the car doors open so that the dog feels it can come and go as it pleases, and if necessary you can sit in the driver’s seat and read a magazine or listen to the radio. There are step by step instructions below as to how to get started.
Management. If you always use your own car to take the pup/dog out in, do the behaviour modification in your hubby’s car instead. Owners do not realize how much a change of circumstances can help. Once the dog has been desensitized in your hubby’s car, start the procedure all over again in your own car. You can even try and park the car the dog normally travels in, in a different location; this alone can help with the association.
Step by Step directions to help a dog overcome its resistance to the car
If a dog is fearful of getting into a car you will start as below and this can take from an hour up to a few days to change the behaviour – it will depend on the dog. What you never do is rush this – as we say in TTouch, you have to ‘work with where the dog is at’ and ensure that the dog is happy and comfortable at each stage before going onto the next step:-
If the dog shows no interest, for a few days keep on doing the work above and in the interim give the dog the spiked chewy a few times a day and take the chewy away when it is really enjoying it. This will ensure that the chewy takes on great importance to the dog. Do this several times until the dog is contentedly chewing each and every time, remembering to take the chewy away when the exercise is over. All this time, the owner is sitting in the front driver’s seat. If the dog is not food driven, this whole exercise can be done with a ball or squeaky toy instead, with the owner throwing the object in and out the car, having a game of pullies in the back seat and letting the dog keep the object in its mouth. I find that when this happens, it is advisable to use the dog’s most favourite toy, but it is only gets to play with it when this work is being undertaken.
This does sound like a lot of work, but with a bit of commitment a pup/dog can get used to the car in a few days, some even quicker.
Some Information and Diagrams on Wraps
A Wrap is best described as being similar to a Receiving Blanket that is put on a new born baby. It seems to give a sense of security and is helpful in any stressful situation, enhances the dog’s sense of its own body and makes it more confident in its movements. I have seen dogs that were reactive to other dogs at a workshop, and just by popping on a Wrap, the dog’s behaviour immediately improved and any reactive behaviour was greatly reduced, the dog appeared to cope better. I have used the Wrap on nervous dogs and instantly seen an improvement in body posture and its coping abilities.
There are other options that can be used instead of the Wrap (but not as effective) and one of these is a child’s T-Shirt. I find that the best type to use is the stretch material which fits more snugly around the body, giving the dog a feeling of security. If the T-Shirt is too big, the two ends can be pulled together and a knot tied in it. Another option is to use a snug fitting dog coat, just ensure it is not too tight. A dog should NEVER be left unattended in a Wrap.
Not all dogs take to the Wrap and I have seen dogs go into an immediate Freeze if it was applied. In order to ensure that a dog can cope with the Wrap and does not add stress to an already stressful situation such as Fireworks, apply it in stages when there are no fireworks around, breaking it down to where the dog is ‘at’. All this entails is leaving it over the back of the dog and seeing the reaction – observe the dog standing then walk the dog around. If the dog tolerates this, then it can be loosely put over the chest and the two ends left dangling over the sides – again, don’t just stand still, let the dog move around and observe. If the dog copes with this, then tie or pin it loosely and again walk the dog around. If, at any stage, the dog shows stress, go back a step and build up slowly until the dog can handle the wrap being attached. Once the dog is wearing the wrap it can be tightened slightly to make it a snug, but not tight fitting and there should be no stretching of the bandage.
At TTouch we use the elastic bandage type called the Ace bandage wrap more than anything else. It comes in 2, 3, 4 and 6 inch widths. It can be fastened with a Baby Safety Pin or with a knot. It must never be pinned or tied on the dog’s spine and if tying a knot, tuck in any loose ends. It does not fit tightly on the body and should not restrict – rather just sitting gently on the body but not so loose that it will slide off. As mentioned above, never leave a dog unattended with a Wrap on as it may get stuck on something or the dog may get it wound around its legs and cause damage to itself.
Place the centre of the wrap at the centre of the dog’s upper chest. Bring the ends up on either side to cross over the shoulders, then down behind the front legs, crossing under the belly, and up to the centre of the back. Fasten the ends with a Baby pin. I do keep stock of Wraps and should you want one, it can be sent with your spray.
- Dealing with Car Sickness
- Dealing with Dogs that have fear of the car
If the dog shows signs of stress while traveling i.e. restless, heavy panting, drooling, then spray above the dog again. As above, it is recommended that car journeys are kept short and you slowly build up the dog’s tolerance to them.
What can be done without behaviour modification?
In addition to using the Spray, I find the following useful:-
- I find that a Wrap is great at helping a pup or dog overcome this problem. The wrap helps the pup/dog to feel more secure, thus lowering the stress levels which will be associated with the car. There is a diagram and some notes on Wraps to give you some more information right at the end.
- Lack of ventilation can contribute to the condition, so lower all the windows to about 3 inches. This will equalize the pressure and allow fresh air to come in. A client of mine also found that it was helpful to direct the air vents directly at her dog and this stopped the problem.
- Don’t smoke in the car. I once had a client who had a dog that was only sick when the husband was in the car – that had me scratching my head! The hubby was present at the consult and the dog was sitting next to him. He happened to light a cigarette and I noticed that the dog first turned its head away, then got up and moved away. I asked if the hubby smoked in the car, to which he replied in the affirmative. I suggested that next car ride that he refrains from smoking in the car and see what happened, yes; the dog was not car sick again!
- Don’t feed a pup/dog for an hour before it goes into the car and don’t eat in the car yourself. Some pups/dogs seem to cope with the car better if they have not had a meal close to the departure time. In humans many people who tolerate traveling in a car feel that they cannot cope if they smell anything strong, such as food or gasoline etc.
- Some people have dogs that only get into the car if they are being taken to the vet or grooming parlour, so the dogs association of the car is unpleasant and stress related. If I pick this up on a questionnaire, even before I see the client and do behaviour modification for other behavioural concerns, I will suggest that they start to take their dog in the car for a very short distance (to the park for example or just down the road to a piece of open ground) and have a game of ball or a walk and do this every day possible. This very often changes the dog’s perception of the traveling and no further modification is necessary for the car sickness. The use of the spray can be used in these circumstances as well to lower the stress that was associated with the car while the modifications are being done.
- Have the pup/dog in a crate or box that it is used too in the home environment. Make this as comfortable as possible. Putting down a thick wad of newspapers under the pup/dog seems to help in some cases. It is believed that the newspaper helps to absorb some of the motion. Here is a link to an article on Crate Training so that you can find out more about the Crate and how to get your dog used to using it.
- An old wives tale (that I have heard helps and that some people swear by) is to give the pup/dog about a ¼ of a ginger biscuit about a half hour before leaving. One of the properties of ginger is that it helps to prevent car sickness.
- When people suffer from sea sickness, it is believed that it is the movement of the horizon going up and down that causes the ailment. I have clients who ensure that their dogs lie down in the car and this prevents the motion sickness. If a pup you could place the pup in its box on the floor, which will be more stable and where it can’t see out. Alternatively, with a larger dog, you can put the new ‘window socks’ on the windows which may help and use a crate with a blanket over it – here ensure that there is plenty of air flow.
- Laugh, sing and joke when in the car with your dog and even play music. As music helps a stressed dog with storm phobia, it also helps in car sickness.
- Practice short trips, even just around the block and build up the distance as the dog begins to tolerate the car more – use the spray. Make these trips fun and enjoyable for the dog in that you go around the block – stop the car, go out with the dog and have a quick sniff and smell around. We are then helping the dog to associate good things happening when in the car. Do this often and gradually build up the distance – keep the regular stops going.
- Be calm yourself. The more stressed you are the more the dog is going to pick up on it and be affected accordingly. If you are worried about having vomit all over your car, invest in one of the washable dog blankets. These are placed over the front head rests and on the back headrests and almost form a sling type affair in the middle. They are made from a water proof material, so any spills can be easily cleaned up and you can put them in the washing machine. Also, don’t label your dog by saying ‘my dog is always sick in the car’ – it will be!
- Although we said previously that food should be avoided, with some dogs to provide entertainment and change the experience from negative to positive in the car by way of a nice big chewy bone to get its teeth stuck into - this may work for some dogs, but no all, and definitely not one with motion sickness. . Ensure that it is the type where it can’t pull pieces off that can be swallowed and is of a large size to prevent swallowing – we prefer a raw Femur bone which has been cut into large pieces. I suggest to clients that this bone only be given when the dog is going in the car. This makes the bone a much more desirable object and the trip in the car something to be enjoyed. Each and every dog is different and sometimes it is only a matter of trial and error to find out what works for that particular dog.
- When I was a child I suffered badly from car sickness which I thankfully grew out of. The only time it now affects me is if I face backwards when traveling – I immediately feel ill. This does not matter what method of transport I use, so having your dog face forward may assist.
- Another method told to me by a friend recently, but which I have never tried myself, is to attach a rubber strip to the bottom of the car. This needs to be long enough to hang on the ground and the theory is that this will eliminate any static electricity (it has not been proven that it is static electricity that causes the problem).
What I have seen, is that different methods work for different dogs, so in addition to the spray, try them out, one at a time with your dog and see what works – more often than not the spray will do the trick but in cases of severe car sickness, other tools may have to be used.
Dealing with Dogs that have fear of the car
If your dog has always been happy in the car and suddenly stops wanting to get in, you could be looking at a physical concern, such as difficult to jump in easily (or jumping out) due to a problem in the body. First see if placing an object big enough for the dog to both jump up into the car, and out again will assist. If a situation like this is occurring, I would suggest a vet visit to rule out any medical condition. Additionally I find that with older dogs if I put a rubber type material where it sits the dog is happier, as it has a firm surface under its feet and if your dog will tolerate it, condition the dog to being in a car harness which will make it feel secure as well.
Starting Point
Here we are going back to scratch and starting to change the dogs association with the car from being a fearful one, to one that is rewarding.
Make the time in the car an exciting and fun time for the dog. Put in a blanket or car seat cover and feed the dogs meals in the car (car is parked of course). Give the dog a favourite chew toy such as a ong or Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude, to get stuck into and ONLY let the dog have this when it is in the car.
You have to go in stages with this exercise and firstly get the dog used to sitting in the car and enjoying the experience. Depending on how stressed the dog gets in the car, you could be dealing with a dog that goes into panic when it is even near the car, or one that only gets ill when the car starts moving. Whatever the situation start right at the beginning and get the dog to associate being in the car with wonderful things such as the bone or chew toy mentioned above. Initially leave the car doors open so that the dog feels it can come and go as it pleases, and if necessary you can sit in the driver’s seat and read a magazine or listen to the radio. There are step by step instructions below as to how to get started.
Management. If you always use your own car to take the pup/dog out in, do the behaviour modification in your hubby’s car instead. Owners do not realize how much a change of circumstances can help. Once the dog has been desensitized in your hubby’s car, start the procedure all over again in your own car. You can even try and park the car the dog normally travels in, in a different location; this alone can help with the association.
Step by Step directions to help a dog overcome its resistance to the car
If a dog is fearful of getting into a car you will start as below and this can take from an hour up to a few days to change the behaviour – it will depend on the dog. What you never do is rush this – as we say in TTouch, you have to ‘work with where the dog is at’ and ensure that the dog is happy and comfortable at each stage before going onto the next step:-
- Start feeding the dog close to the car with the door of the car open and owner sitting inside the car.
- Once dog is happily eating in this manner, put the food in the car where the dog is going to eat and let the dog eat there. Do this at all mealtimes. The owner again sits in the front.
- Now take the work a step further and start tossing in treats(and make these high value such as biltong/ liver bread etc – something with a strong smell as well as great taste) for the dog to jump in and get.
- When the dog is doing is getting in and out the car with no stress, pop in a lovely stuffed Kong or Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude, which has been liberally smeared with peanut butter (remember large amounts of peanut butter can be toxic to dogs, rather use the organic peanut butter) in the cracks with a few pieces of biltong stuck in cracks as well.
If the dog shows no interest, for a few days keep on doing the work above and in the interim give the dog the spiked chewy a few times a day and take the chewy away when it is really enjoying it. This will ensure that the chewy takes on great importance to the dog. Do this several times until the dog is contentedly chewing each and every time, remembering to take the chewy away when the exercise is over. All this time, the owner is sitting in the front driver’s seat. If the dog is not food driven, this whole exercise can be done with a ball or squeaky toy instead, with the owner throwing the object in and out the car, having a game of pullies in the back seat and letting the dog keep the object in its mouth. I find that when this happens, it is advisable to use the dog’s most favourite toy, but it is only gets to play with it when this work is being undertaken.
- Next step is to repeat as above and when the dog is happily chewing, owner starts the engine, but just sits with the car idling. If the dog accepts this, the back door is closed and the dog is left to chew for a few minutes. Repeat this step over and over.
- Now repeat the above but this time the owner will move the car up and down the driveway a few times. Don’t go too quickly; let the dog get used to this before taking it further. If at any time the dog starts to stress, go back to the sequence it was comfortable with and stay at this stage a bit longer - build up slowly from there.
- Next step is to locate a park/open ground etc a few minutes away from the home and this time the you drive directly there, get out, walk the dog, even play ball and both have a good time. Dog then gets back into the car with the chewy and return home. If the dog was only sick after about a 15-20 minutes car drive for the first time, then ensure that all trips take place under this period while doing the behaviour modification and don’t take the dog on a long trip until you are totally sure that the car sickness has been overcome.
- The last point is done over and over again until the dog is happy and then slowly build up the distance. For the time being, avoids trip to the vet or places the dog does not like and look for roads that are straight rather than curvy and hilly and if possible the road is in good repair, otherwise the trip may contribute to car sickness.
- If the dog does not cope with the above, have somebody in the car with the dog and repeat all the points. When the dog gets to the stage that it is happy going out, then the owner goes all the way back to the beginning of the moving the car stage, but without anybody else in the car.
This does sound like a lot of work, but with a bit of commitment a pup/dog can get used to the car in a few days, some even quicker.
Some Information and Diagrams on Wraps
A Wrap is best described as being similar to a Receiving Blanket that is put on a new born baby. It seems to give a sense of security and is helpful in any stressful situation, enhances the dog’s sense of its own body and makes it more confident in its movements. I have seen dogs that were reactive to other dogs at a workshop, and just by popping on a Wrap, the dog’s behaviour immediately improved and any reactive behaviour was greatly reduced, the dog appeared to cope better. I have used the Wrap on nervous dogs and instantly seen an improvement in body posture and its coping abilities.
There are other options that can be used instead of the Wrap (but not as effective) and one of these is a child’s T-Shirt. I find that the best type to use is the stretch material which fits more snugly around the body, giving the dog a feeling of security. If the T-Shirt is too big, the two ends can be pulled together and a knot tied in it. Another option is to use a snug fitting dog coat, just ensure it is not too tight. A dog should NEVER be left unattended in a Wrap.
Not all dogs take to the Wrap and I have seen dogs go into an immediate Freeze if it was applied. In order to ensure that a dog can cope with the Wrap and does not add stress to an already stressful situation such as Fireworks, apply it in stages when there are no fireworks around, breaking it down to where the dog is ‘at’. All this entails is leaving it over the back of the dog and seeing the reaction – observe the dog standing then walk the dog around. If the dog tolerates this, then it can be loosely put over the chest and the two ends left dangling over the sides – again, don’t just stand still, let the dog move around and observe. If the dog copes with this, then tie or pin it loosely and again walk the dog around. If, at any stage, the dog shows stress, go back a step and build up slowly until the dog can handle the wrap being attached. Once the dog is wearing the wrap it can be tightened slightly to make it a snug, but not tight fitting and there should be no stretching of the bandage.
At TTouch we use the elastic bandage type called the Ace bandage wrap more than anything else. It comes in 2, 3, 4 and 6 inch widths. It can be fastened with a Baby Safety Pin or with a knot. It must never be pinned or tied on the dog’s spine and if tying a knot, tuck in any loose ends. It does not fit tightly on the body and should not restrict – rather just sitting gently on the body but not so loose that it will slide off. As mentioned above, never leave a dog unattended with a Wrap on as it may get stuck on something or the dog may get it wound around its legs and cause damage to itself.
Place the centre of the wrap at the centre of the dog’s upper chest. Bring the ends up on either side to cross over the shoulders, then down behind the front legs, crossing under the belly, and up to the centre of the back. Fasten the ends with a Baby pin. I do keep stock of Wraps and should you want one, it can be sent with your spray.
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Basic TTouches to relax your dog. It is my belief that if each and every owner learned the basics of TTouch our animals world would be a much better place!
Until you learn how to do TTouch (and Scotty does offer lessons), here is an Ear Touch you can use as well as some basic Acupressure stroking techniques - both of which, especially when done daily, will help to reduce your dogs stress levels. Although you are not doing actual Acupressure, just stroking in these areas with your fingers - using a gentle pressure, will help to reduce anxiety.
Until you learn how to do TTouch (and Scotty does offer lessons), here is an Ear Touch you can use as well as some basic Acupressure stroking techniques - both of which, especially when done daily, will help to reduce your dogs stress levels. Although you are not doing actual Acupressure, just stroking in these areas with your fingers - using a gentle pressure, will help to reduce anxiety.
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EAR TTOUCH
Stroking the ear as described, is one of the most important things you can do for your pet. Even a few minutes working on the ears can be beneficial. The ears (and base) contain over 200 acupressure points which will help a pet (or human) relax and stroking the tips of the ears can actually prevent shock. The Ear TTouch is also great for all stress, digestion, fatigue, circulation and car sickness. |
HOW TO
Gently stroke from the base of the ear to the tip. Supporting the head with one hand hold your thumb on the outside and bent fingers on the underside and stroke outwards towards and over the tip of the ear. |
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HERE ARE A FEW ACUPRESSURE STROKING TECHNIQUES THAT WILL ALSO LOWER STRESS
Yin Tang. This is found in the midline of the head just above the eyes. Stroke gently from the middle of the muzzle area and between the eyes and will feel a slight indent. This helps dogs with mental focus and clarity.
Yang Tang – This is found about one fingers width on the outside of the eye where the upper and lower eyelids meet. Helps with fears and anxiety and anxiety related behaviour such as excessive barking to mention just one. Just stroke gently in this area.
GV20 – Found in the middle of the top of a dogs head about halfway between front edges of the ears. If your dog has a prominent occipital bump, it will be just in front of this. This is one of the main calming points on a dog and helps to calm the mind. Great for fear, anxiety, reactive behaviour. After stroking over the Yin Tang area, you can just continue stroking between the eyes and over the top of the head.
Behind the ears - the above diagram does not show this position, however just run your fingers gently behind the ears, from top to bottom. As you go to the bottom of the ear at the base of the neck, following the line of the ear, you will feel a bit of a dent - stroke back and forwards over this area. This is GB20 and very good for stress.
Bai Hui – dogs love having a good scratch in this area – they know better than us! It helps to generate energy along the spine and hind legs so great for helping older dogs. Also a very good calming point. You will find this in the middle of the back, between the hips (sacrum area) and the area feels flat to the touch and you can’t feel the spinous process underneath.
Yang Tang – This is found about one fingers width on the outside of the eye where the upper and lower eyelids meet. Helps with fears and anxiety and anxiety related behaviour such as excessive barking to mention just one. Just stroke gently in this area.
GV20 – Found in the middle of the top of a dogs head about halfway between front edges of the ears. If your dog has a prominent occipital bump, it will be just in front of this. This is one of the main calming points on a dog and helps to calm the mind. Great for fear, anxiety, reactive behaviour. After stroking over the Yin Tang area, you can just continue stroking between the eyes and over the top of the head.
Behind the ears - the above diagram does not show this position, however just run your fingers gently behind the ears, from top to bottom. As you go to the bottom of the ear at the base of the neck, following the line of the ear, you will feel a bit of a dent - stroke back and forwards over this area. This is GB20 and very good for stress.
Bai Hui – dogs love having a good scratch in this area – they know better than us! It helps to generate energy along the spine and hind legs so great for helping older dogs. Also a very good calming point. You will find this in the middle of the back, between the hips (sacrum area) and the area feels flat to the touch and you can’t feel the spinous process underneath.