Pulling on Lead – Using the Head Halter
By Scotty Valadao (Accredited Behaviour Consultant) (Canine) (ABC of SA™)
Head Halters are used more overseas than here in South Africa although many owners are now realizing the benefits of using same. In the past they were used by themselves with only a lead attached and were used in a manner that one controlled the dog, rather than influencing it.
Tellington TTouch uses the Head Halter with 2 points of contact, one to the Head Halter and the other end of the lead is attached to either a material collar or a half choke/Martingale collar. This allows one to influence the dog and is a wonderful aid to stop a dog pulling or gently turn the head away from another dog in the event of reactivity towards other dogs or people, without having a tug of war.
Turning a dog’s head away from a perceived threat is considered as what is termed a ‘Calming Signal’ (Turid Rugaas – see article Calming Signals)) and will reassure the dog. It also allows the handler to feel more secure as they will be able to control the dog. This confidence travels down the lead and the dog, in turn, feels more secure. This very often results in an immediate reduction of reactive behaviour.
Lower down are pictures of the two more common types of Head Halters (Halti and Gentle Leader), but there are many more on offer, dependant on the shape of your dogs head and these can be obtained from the TTouch offices. www.ttouch.co.za. They can also be purchased on-line and in some Pet Shops. You will also need a long lead with two clips, one at each end and one clip will be much smaller than the other. This is the one that will eventually be attached to the Head Halter. If you cannot find these at a pet shop or vet, they can be purchased from TTouch as above.
Halti: (description by www.pawsitivedog.com)
This was created by Dr. Roger Mugford, who, in 1979, was the founder of The Animal Behaviour Centre in the UK. They were originally all made in black but can now be found in a variety of colours that can blend with your dogs face colorings.
Description:
One piece design has cheek straps that connect the nose loop and neck loop portions. Newer models may have some adjustment options. Leash connects to a ring that is located on the bottom under the dog’s chin. All have quick release connectors. Fit should allow a finger to easily slide under both cheek straps.
Advantages:
Looser fit and lighter weight fabric is less restrictive and better accepted by some dogs. Location of the chin ring gives better leverage… easier to turn the dog’s head without twisting the neck. Less expensive and may be easier to find than the GL.
Disadvantages:
Feels a bit flimsier to the touch. Looser fit means that the dog can paw it off or back out of it easier. It is recommended that a back-up leash or collar be used for safety and the Halti now comes with a short safety strap to attach it to the collar. Lack of adjustment means it may not fit all head shapes.
Tellington TTouch uses the Head Halter with 2 points of contact, one to the Head Halter and the other end of the lead is attached to either a material collar or a half choke/Martingale collar. This allows one to influence the dog and is a wonderful aid to stop a dog pulling or gently turn the head away from another dog in the event of reactivity towards other dogs or people, without having a tug of war.
Turning a dog’s head away from a perceived threat is considered as what is termed a ‘Calming Signal’ (Turid Rugaas – see article Calming Signals)) and will reassure the dog. It also allows the handler to feel more secure as they will be able to control the dog. This confidence travels down the lead and the dog, in turn, feels more secure. This very often results in an immediate reduction of reactive behaviour.
Lower down are pictures of the two more common types of Head Halters (Halti and Gentle Leader), but there are many more on offer, dependant on the shape of your dogs head and these can be obtained from the TTouch offices. www.ttouch.co.za. They can also be purchased on-line and in some Pet Shops. You will also need a long lead with two clips, one at each end and one clip will be much smaller than the other. This is the one that will eventually be attached to the Head Halter. If you cannot find these at a pet shop or vet, they can be purchased from TTouch as above.
Halti: (description by www.pawsitivedog.com)
This was created by Dr. Roger Mugford, who, in 1979, was the founder of The Animal Behaviour Centre in the UK. They were originally all made in black but can now be found in a variety of colours that can blend with your dogs face colorings.
Description:
One piece design has cheek straps that connect the nose loop and neck loop portions. Newer models may have some adjustment options. Leash connects to a ring that is located on the bottom under the dog’s chin. All have quick release connectors. Fit should allow a finger to easily slide under both cheek straps.
Advantages:
Looser fit and lighter weight fabric is less restrictive and better accepted by some dogs. Location of the chin ring gives better leverage… easier to turn the dog’s head without twisting the neck. Less expensive and may be easier to find than the GL.
Disadvantages:
Feels a bit flimsier to the touch. Looser fit means that the dog can paw it off or back out of it easier. It is recommended that a back-up leash or collar be used for safety and the Halti now comes with a short safety strap to attach it to the collar. Lack of adjustment means it may not fit all head shapes.
.
Gentle Leader:(description by www.pawsitivedog.com)
Manufactured by Premier Pet Products, they were formerly only available from trainers and vets, but are now available in many retail places (also TTouch – www.ttouch.co.za). They come in various sizes and colors.
Description:
Two “loops” that connect below the chin at the throat. The “neck loop” fits like a collar high on the neck just behind the ears. The fit is quite snug. The “nose loop” goes over the dog’s nose and rests just in front of the eyes. It is adjusted fairly snugly so that the loop won’t slide off the end of the dog’s nose. There is a ring at the bottom where the two loops connect. This is where the leash attaches.
Advantages:
Well made. Nice feeling fabric. Choice of quick release or buckle. A second ring on the neck loop allows you to use it as a collar (nose loop hangs loose at throat rather than over nose) in transitioning off of using the GL. For dogs that accept it readily, the owner can be walking the dog in a matter of minutes.
Disadvantages:
Snug fit is fairly restrictive. Some dogs find this objectionable. Generally costs more than the Halti. The position of the leash attachment gives less control than that of the Halti
Fitting the Head Halter
The Head Halter is fitted in a way that it is never too tight on the dog. The ideal fitting is that the dog can open its mouth wide enough to fit a ball in, or yawn, without pressure being exerted on the material or rings. If using a Halti brand you should be able to (standing behind the dogs head), place both thumbs at the same time on the inside of the rings and not have the thumbnails touch the jaw.
Preparing the dog for wearing the Head Halter.
It is unadvisable to put it straight on the dog, rather do this slowly, in stages, in order that the dog does not stress. If the dog does start stressing, simply go back a step until the dog is happy and then proceed. Many dogs will accept a Head Halter with little or no fuss; others will take time to become used to it. A dog should never be left unsupervised with the Head Halter on.
For the preparation you will need a piece of elastic approximately ½ inch wide. This must be long enough that it will go over the dogs head and when crossed over, under the chin, can be fitted loosely over the muzzle, as in the picture below. In this picture, I have used some Vet Tape so that it shows more clearly. Vet Tape can also be used to start with if the dog is resistant to the elastic. Have a handful of favourite treats with you as well.
Manufactured by Premier Pet Products, they were formerly only available from trainers and vets, but are now available in many retail places (also TTouch – www.ttouch.co.za). They come in various sizes and colors.
Description:
Two “loops” that connect below the chin at the throat. The “neck loop” fits like a collar high on the neck just behind the ears. The fit is quite snug. The “nose loop” goes over the dog’s nose and rests just in front of the eyes. It is adjusted fairly snugly so that the loop won’t slide off the end of the dog’s nose. There is a ring at the bottom where the two loops connect. This is where the leash attaches.
Advantages:
Well made. Nice feeling fabric. Choice of quick release or buckle. A second ring on the neck loop allows you to use it as a collar (nose loop hangs loose at throat rather than over nose) in transitioning off of using the GL. For dogs that accept it readily, the owner can be walking the dog in a matter of minutes.
Disadvantages:
Snug fit is fairly restrictive. Some dogs find this objectionable. Generally costs more than the Halti. The position of the leash attachment gives less control than that of the Halti
Fitting the Head Halter
The Head Halter is fitted in a way that it is never too tight on the dog. The ideal fitting is that the dog can open its mouth wide enough to fit a ball in, or yawn, without pressure being exerted on the material or rings. If using a Halti brand you should be able to (standing behind the dogs head), place both thumbs at the same time on the inside of the rings and not have the thumbnails touch the jaw.
Preparing the dog for wearing the Head Halter.
It is unadvisable to put it straight on the dog, rather do this slowly, in stages, in order that the dog does not stress. If the dog does start stressing, simply go back a step until the dog is happy and then proceed. Many dogs will accept a Head Halter with little or no fuss; others will take time to become used to it. A dog should never be left unsupervised with the Head Halter on.
For the preparation you will need a piece of elastic approximately ½ inch wide. This must be long enough that it will go over the dogs head and when crossed over, under the chin, can be fitted loosely over the muzzle, as in the picture below. In this picture, I have used some Vet Tape so that it shows more clearly. Vet Tape can also be used to start with if the dog is resistant to the elastic. Have a handful of favourite treats with you as well.
.
· If you have already learnt TTouch and the benefits of same, start off by doing the circular TTouch all along the jaw and muzzle area. Doing this usually breaks down the dogs resistant to anything restraining around its muzzle.
·If you have not learnt TTouch, then start by doing long soft strokes with the palm on your hand all along the muzzle area as often as possible. This will help to prepare the dog for the Halter.
·Start by placing the elastic over the nose as per picture below, constantly giving the dog treats while doing so. This is a form of desensitizing the dog to the new experience. The dog will then associate the Head Halter being put on as a pleasurable one i.e. – good things happen when I wear this!
·If you have not learnt TTouch, then start by doing long soft strokes with the palm on your hand all along the muzzle area as often as possible. This will help to prepare the dog for the Halter.
·Start by placing the elastic over the nose as per picture below, constantly giving the dog treats while doing so. This is a form of desensitizing the dog to the new experience. The dog will then associate the Head Halter being put on as a pleasurable one i.e. – good things happen when I wear this!
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- When the dog is happy with this, hold the ends together under the chin (loosely) and continue the treating and praising
- Your next step is to cross the elastic under the dogs chin and slip the rest of the elastic over the head as in the picture above. Remember this should be loose on the neck. Continue treating and praising.
- If your dog paws it off, let him, but stop the treats. Pop it back on and treat again and keep on repeating.
- When your dog is used to wearing it, start to engage him in his favourite activities while he is wearing it i.e. playing ball, going for a walk, eating his dinner, etc.
- The next step is to repeat the process with an actual Head Halter. I find it is much more acceptable to a dog to do this the first few times with the elastic in place under the Head Halter. If the dog is stressing about putting the Heal Halter on, then go back a few steps and use the procedure you used with the elastic, but with the Head Halter this time.
- Continue the favourite activities with the dog wearing the Head Halter all the time but without the lead attached to the Head Halter ring.
- When the dog has accepted the above, now is the time to put something on the Head Halter ring. I find that rather than attaching the small clip of the double ended lead, if one uses one of the long (el cheapo!) key ring holders with a clip and made out of material, that the dog accepts it easily. If not available, then use the small clip at the one end of the lead. At this stage it is only connected and is not used at all. This allows the dog to adjust to the additional weight coming from the Head Halter.
- Continue walks with this on, but exerting no pressure on it at all until the dog is ignoring wearing same. If the dog does happen to paw it off, simply put it back on and offer a treat.
I have had several dogs that are not food motivated at all, but rather enjoyed balls and toys. If this is the case with your dog, then ‘treat’ the dog by allowing him to hold the ball/toy instead and have lots of games of same with dog wearing the Head Halter. What is important here is the association of the pleasurable time to the dog. Therefore, don’t play ball, games etc, without the Head Halter being on the dog.
Walking with Head Halter and double ended lead
In TTouch we use the ‘ask and release’ method as described here by TTouch Instructor Edie Jane Easton:-
“The TTouch technique of using the halter is also a little different from other methods. One aspect to keep in mind is that it is used to ‘influence’ the dog by showing the dog what is expected of it, rather than being used for the purpose of ‘control’, which implies prevention of some behaviour. In order to influence the dog easily, it is important for the handler to stay at the dogs head, rather than falling behind to a position where she can ‘correct’ but not ‘direct’.
All the signals are in the form of ‘ask and release’. When we take the time to watch how animals respond it is evident that most of the time they react on the release rather than while the signal is being given. This observation makes it clear that it takes a moment for understanding to be transformed into action. We might need to re-think the snappy responses we often ask from dogs, and look at what happens to the dog’s balance and demeanor when we give sharp and sodden commands. The signal to come forward it used on the collar only – at the back of the neck. If the dog is pulled forward by the halter, the tendency is for the head to rise which causes the back to drop – making it harder for the dog to step forward under himself. Using the collar for the forward signal allows the back to soften and lengthen, so it is easier for the dog to be successful in doing what is being asked.
Similarly, the signal to turn – again, ‘ask and release’ – is made by showing the dog which way to turn his head, while asking for the ‘forward’ off the flat collar. If the turn signal is to be clear, the halter leash needs to be a little to the front and to the side – rather than back, or back and to the side as so commonly happens if we are behind the dogs shoulder. It becomes really easy for them to learn to turn their heads if the first few times we have a treat for them in the hand holding the halter leash!
When stopping, the principal signal is given on the flat collar and the halter is used for fine-tuning. A benefit of the double connection is that if the dog pulls on one, the pressure on it can be released, and the contact picked up on the other. Allowing the dogs moments of falling forward as you switch from on to the other leash makes him have to catch his balance. If you keep taking away what he is leaning against, he stops leaning! You will find that you will be able to use a very light signal in this manner – even with many strong dogs.
If you are finding any difficulty using this method, then either contact me at [email protected]. or the TTouch offices at www.ttouch.co.za for a practitioner to help you.
References: Tellington TTouch; Edie Jane Eaton; Linda Tellington Jones; T
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