De-stressing your dog and providing the correct physical and mental stimulation needed
by Scotty Valadao - Canine Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA) ; TTouch Practitioner
www.fods.co.za
by Scotty Valadao - Canine Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA) ; TTouch Practitioner
www.fods.co.za
General
As behaviourists working in the home environment, we see daily that the second one brings in mental and physical stimulation, especially daily walks, there is a noticeable improvement in the current behaviour concerns, regardless of what behaviour concern is being experienced and this will help to mould the new addition into a well-behaved and balanced family dog.
It is also a good idea to try to focus on ideas to stimulate which are breed related i.e. lots of balls, Frisbees being thrown for a Retriever or the Flirt Pole and Digging Pits and Tyre on Rope for the Terrier breed.
All dogs are natural prey animals so any games that involve chase and pulling will help to stimulate the natural prey drive. Below you will find ideas that can be brought in both with, and without people being present.
The ideas presented here are those which have been given, or sourced to us over the years - so a grateful thank you to all of these people!
Daily Walks
We all understand that smell is the strongest of all a dogs senses, but not all people realize just how strong it actually is. The dog’s sense of smell is over 45 times more developed than humans. This translates to about 5 million scent glands in a human, and between 100 – 300 million in a dog! This is obviously breed dependent with some breeds having better smelling abilities than others. This highlights for us exactly why it is so very important for all owners to get their dogs out for a daily walk, even if only 15 minutes during the week due to work constrictions.
In the late 1900's research was done on 45 dogs in Austria (unfortunately the original research we had was lost when our hard drive crashed some years ago) that all had very serious behaviour problems. No behaviour modification was brought in, no medication was used - all that transpired was that for a 30 day period (remembering it takes a minimum of 21 -30 days to start to change a habit) the dogs were exposed to various scenting work during the day.
Some dogs went for walks once a day, others for walks several times a day, while another few dogs were engaged in scenting exercises both naturally and as set up exercises - in general the dogs were all stimulated by using their sense of smell. At the end of the study there was an amazing 60% reduction in the behaviour concerns!
Games
Games of throwing the ball/Frisbee. Don’t always make these into training sessions by getting the dog to retrieve properly. Rather have a cue for a formal retrieve and then another cue for ‘fun’ where you can just throw various objects (have several with you) and up to the dog if it brings it back or not.
As behaviourists working in the home environment, we see daily that the second one brings in mental and physical stimulation, especially daily walks, there is a noticeable improvement in the current behaviour concerns, regardless of what behaviour concern is being experienced and this will help to mould the new addition into a well-behaved and balanced family dog.
It is also a good idea to try to focus on ideas to stimulate which are breed related i.e. lots of balls, Frisbees being thrown for a Retriever or the Flirt Pole and Digging Pits and Tyre on Rope for the Terrier breed.
All dogs are natural prey animals so any games that involve chase and pulling will help to stimulate the natural prey drive. Below you will find ideas that can be brought in both with, and without people being present.
The ideas presented here are those which have been given, or sourced to us over the years - so a grateful thank you to all of these people!
Daily Walks
We all understand that smell is the strongest of all a dogs senses, but not all people realize just how strong it actually is. The dog’s sense of smell is over 45 times more developed than humans. This translates to about 5 million scent glands in a human, and between 100 – 300 million in a dog! This is obviously breed dependent with some breeds having better smelling abilities than others. This highlights for us exactly why it is so very important for all owners to get their dogs out for a daily walk, even if only 15 minutes during the week due to work constrictions.
In the late 1900's research was done on 45 dogs in Austria (unfortunately the original research we had was lost when our hard drive crashed some years ago) that all had very serious behaviour problems. No behaviour modification was brought in, no medication was used - all that transpired was that for a 30 day period (remembering it takes a minimum of 21 -30 days to start to change a habit) the dogs were exposed to various scenting work during the day.
Some dogs went for walks once a day, others for walks several times a day, while another few dogs were engaged in scenting exercises both naturally and as set up exercises - in general the dogs were all stimulated by using their sense of smell. At the end of the study there was an amazing 60% reduction in the behaviour concerns!
Games
Games of throwing the ball/Frisbee. Don’t always make these into training sessions by getting the dog to retrieve properly. Rather have a cue for a formal retrieve and then another cue for ‘fun’ where you can just throw various objects (have several with you) and up to the dog if it brings it back or not.
Tyre or Rope toy on a rope
When interactive these are great entertainment for a dog and it just has to be taught how to play with it by itself which is very easy to do. Suspend a rope from a pole or a tree and ideally have the tyre or rope just above the dogs head but close enough that it can bite onto the rope or tyre. Have a game of pullies with the dog to get it started. If the dog is a bit hesitant, you can smear on a bit of liver paste or similar to make it more appealing or else soak it in beef or chicken broth and then let it dry completely. Not all dogs will enjoy this - many dogs have never been taught how to play. T
Care to be taken where types are concerned as standard car tyres contain metal. Rather the smaller tyres from drag cars or ones purchased in a pet shop – just check regarding the wire as a safe guard.
When interactive these are great entertainment for a dog and it just has to be taught how to play with it by itself which is very easy to do. Suspend a rope from a pole or a tree and ideally have the tyre or rope just above the dogs head but close enough that it can bite onto the rope or tyre. Have a game of pullies with the dog to get it started. If the dog is a bit hesitant, you can smear on a bit of liver paste or similar to make it more appealing or else soak it in beef or chicken broth and then let it dry completely. Not all dogs will enjoy this - many dogs have never been taught how to play. T
Care to be taken where types are concerned as standard car tyres contain metal. Rather the smaller tyres from drag cars or ones purchased in a pet shop – just check regarding the wire as a safe guard.
Swimming or Paddle Pool
A Paddle pool in the run can supply a way to cool down and also entertainment. What many dogs love is when one puts some toys that float into the water and the dogs have great fun trying to pick these up.
A daily swim provides great exercise and throwing objects in the be retrieved makes it even better. As many dogs can become itchy or even allergic to the chlorine in a pool and it can also dry the coat - rather hose them off when they have finished swimming.
A Paddle pool in the run can supply a way to cool down and also entertainment. What many dogs love is when one puts some toys that float into the water and the dogs have great fun trying to pick these up.
A daily swim provides great exercise and throwing objects in the be retrieved makes it even better. As many dogs can become itchy or even allergic to the chlorine in a pool and it can also dry the coat - rather hose them off when they have finished swimming.
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Digging Pit
Digging is a natural, instinctive behaviour, even more so in some breeds than others, such as the Terrier breeds that were bred to dig. Breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Siberian husky like to dig an impression in the soil to cool themselves off and Labs love digging as well. You will notice that some dogs (again especially Terriers) will dig beds on the couch or your own bed before they lie down.
The dog’s ancestors used to dig holes for protection, to store leftover bones in (some dogs still do this today), to protect their young from predators and to have a den to give birth in.
Other reasons that dogs dig is they are attracted by the smell of manure, dig out of boredom, to get rid of excess energy or to release stress or anxiety, the dog may further be rewarded by the behaviour by finding little creepy crawlies, or it may even dig just for fun.
A digging pit is like a sandbox for dogs, great to play in. Now why would your dog dig in the digging pit rather than the rose garden? Simple, you make it rewarding for the dog to dig in the legal area simply by putting in toys, chewies, bones etc in it. Have the dog next to you and let him see you place a nice bone or chew toy in the dig box. Cover it up, then making a digging motion yourself, say ‘dig, dig’ in an excited voce. As the dog is already a digger it will be quick to mimic you – then guess what, a wonderful treat is found! Initially you may have to encourage the dog to dig in it, but once they get realize what is for, they will rather use the digging pit than dig somewhere which is not rewarding and if there are more dogs in the free play area or in the run, they may join in the fun - do be aware - don't place these right next to a fence that can be dug under!
You need to keep on replenishing the digging pit and make sure it doesn’t dry up of treats, or it will not be appealing. Soil is better than sand from the point of view that there is more likely to be a worm problem with sand. If you do decide on sand, then put in a handful of salt to discourage the worms on a regular basis. An added bonus of your dog’s digging pit, is that it keeps them entertained while you are out if you put one in for your own dog.
Look for the best place to place the digging pit in the run, and if the dog is already digging in any one place, make this area into the digging pit but as above you dont want digging under fences. Preferable an area that is shady and if possible, where the dog can see the gate. You will often find dogs digging over the surface soil looking for a cool place to lie so the digging pit will function for this as well. If the dog already has a favourite place to dig, then put the digging pit there. It should be approximately 2 x 3 meters (dependent on the size of the dog) and you can place bricks or railway sleepers around it to keep it intact if desired.
Digging is a natural, instinctive behaviour, even more so in some breeds than others, such as the Terrier breeds that were bred to dig. Breeds such as the Alaskan malamute and Siberian husky like to dig an impression in the soil to cool themselves off and Labs love digging as well. You will notice that some dogs (again especially Terriers) will dig beds on the couch or your own bed before they lie down.
The dog’s ancestors used to dig holes for protection, to store leftover bones in (some dogs still do this today), to protect their young from predators and to have a den to give birth in.
Other reasons that dogs dig is they are attracted by the smell of manure, dig out of boredom, to get rid of excess energy or to release stress or anxiety, the dog may further be rewarded by the behaviour by finding little creepy crawlies, or it may even dig just for fun.
A digging pit is like a sandbox for dogs, great to play in. Now why would your dog dig in the digging pit rather than the rose garden? Simple, you make it rewarding for the dog to dig in the legal area simply by putting in toys, chewies, bones etc in it. Have the dog next to you and let him see you place a nice bone or chew toy in the dig box. Cover it up, then making a digging motion yourself, say ‘dig, dig’ in an excited voce. As the dog is already a digger it will be quick to mimic you – then guess what, a wonderful treat is found! Initially you may have to encourage the dog to dig in it, but once they get realize what is for, they will rather use the digging pit than dig somewhere which is not rewarding and if there are more dogs in the free play area or in the run, they may join in the fun - do be aware - don't place these right next to a fence that can be dug under!
You need to keep on replenishing the digging pit and make sure it doesn’t dry up of treats, or it will not be appealing. Soil is better than sand from the point of view that there is more likely to be a worm problem with sand. If you do decide on sand, then put in a handful of salt to discourage the worms on a regular basis. An added bonus of your dog’s digging pit, is that it keeps them entertained while you are out if you put one in for your own dog.
Look for the best place to place the digging pit in the run, and if the dog is already digging in any one place, make this area into the digging pit but as above you dont want digging under fences. Preferable an area that is shady and if possible, where the dog can see the gate. You will often find dogs digging over the surface soil looking for a cool place to lie so the digging pit will function for this as well. If the dog already has a favourite place to dig, then put the digging pit there. It should be approximately 2 x 3 meters (dependent on the size of the dog) and you can place bricks or railway sleepers around it to keep it intact if desired.
Metal Bowls
If there are any areas in the run that have brick or cement, then the use of a Metal Bowl is great. You can have various sized to suit the dogs concerned. All you do is place a treat under the bowl and let the dog push it around with its muzzle trying to get the treat from underneath.
Empty Cereal Boxes
Take an empty cardboard box. Cereal boxes and egg cartons work well for this. Put a few treats inside, then tape the box closed with masking tape leaving one side open so the dog has access, or you can leave it closed at both sides one the dog gets the hang of it. You can even take some paper and wrap the treat in this making it harder for the dog to get to it. Idea is to start of making it easy for the dog and then gradually make it harder - provides entertainment and great mental stimulation.
You can also put food-stuffed Kongs in the box before you tape it up. Give the sealed box to the dog and watch him tear it open with gusto to get at the treats. When he’s finished, your box is already shredded/broken down and will take up a lot less room in the recycling container.
Scent Games
You can teach the dog to follow food put on the ground by tossing a piece on the grass/floor in front of the dog and excitedly saying ‘findies, findies’ and praising lavishly as the dog eats it. Gradually add more and more pieces of food and make the distance longer. In no time at all you will be able to tell the dog to ‘Findies’ as you go out and this will keep the dog entertained for longer and use this when you are out in the Free Play area.
A variation on this is to teach the dog to Find items under objects and then leave a whole lot of them around the run with one treat under each one – scent dogs especially love this game.
Other variations you can use to stimulate scent and here it is better to teach the dog how to play under supervision and later these can be left for the dogs by themselves in the run:-
Agility
Putting up a small agility course in the Free Play area can be great fun for dog and volunteers alike. There are portable jumps and tunnels which can be purchased or else you can put up buckets and poles from brushes, empty cardboard boxes etc which can be used as jumps or a small table to go under.
If there are any areas in the run that have brick or cement, then the use of a Metal Bowl is great. You can have various sized to suit the dogs concerned. All you do is place a treat under the bowl and let the dog push it around with its muzzle trying to get the treat from underneath.
Empty Cereal Boxes
Take an empty cardboard box. Cereal boxes and egg cartons work well for this. Put a few treats inside, then tape the box closed with masking tape leaving one side open so the dog has access, or you can leave it closed at both sides one the dog gets the hang of it. You can even take some paper and wrap the treat in this making it harder for the dog to get to it. Idea is to start of making it easy for the dog and then gradually make it harder - provides entertainment and great mental stimulation.
You can also put food-stuffed Kongs in the box before you tape it up. Give the sealed box to the dog and watch him tear it open with gusto to get at the treats. When he’s finished, your box is already shredded/broken down and will take up a lot less room in the recycling container.
Scent Games
You can teach the dog to follow food put on the ground by tossing a piece on the grass/floor in front of the dog and excitedly saying ‘findies, findies’ and praising lavishly as the dog eats it. Gradually add more and more pieces of food and make the distance longer. In no time at all you will be able to tell the dog to ‘Findies’ as you go out and this will keep the dog entertained for longer and use this when you are out in the Free Play area.
A variation on this is to teach the dog to Find items under objects and then leave a whole lot of them around the run with one treat under each one – scent dogs especially love this game.
Other variations you can use to stimulate scent and here it is better to teach the dog how to play under supervision and later these can be left for the dogs by themselves in the run:-
- a muffin or scone baking tray where a piece of food is placed underneath it. These provide about 9 or 12 opportunities for the dog to get the treats below.
- a variation of above is to use either a 24 cardboard egg tray or a smaller size and engage in the same game as above.
Agility
Putting up a small agility course in the Free Play area can be great fun for dog and volunteers alike. There are portable jumps and tunnels which can be purchased or else you can put up buckets and poles from brushes, empty cardboard boxes etc which can be used as jumps or a small table to go under.
Flirt Pole
The Flirt Pole below provides endless entertainment for a dog and is really tiring. It can also be combined with obedience in that the dog has to either Down or Sit and Wait. When the dog is allowed to catch the 'prey' a Leave can be brought in. This really stimulates the prey drive in a dog and is a wonderful method of play. On You Tube you can also find videos showing how to make a Flirt Pole and you will see that with Willow playing below, that we used a substantial toy, while in the Video they used a small one.
One of the many flirt pole links on Facebook https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtPjTZCVZvk
The Flirt Pole below provides endless entertainment for a dog and is really tiring. It can also be combined with obedience in that the dog has to either Down or Sit and Wait. When the dog is allowed to catch the 'prey' a Leave can be brought in. This really stimulates the prey drive in a dog and is a wonderful method of play. On You Tube you can also find videos showing how to make a Flirt Pole and you will see that with Willow playing below, that we used a substantial toy, while in the Video they used a small one.
One of the many flirt pole links on Facebook https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtPjTZCVZvk
 Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude - these can be stuffed full of kibble and other options
Legal Chew Toys
In our opinion the very best chew toys available are the Busy Buddy Squirrel Dudes. These can be stuffed with so many different recipes and keep the dog entertained for absolutely ages. An extra bonus is once the dog gets used to them they can be frozen - this means not only will this help pups that are teething, they take longer to get the contents out! As the Busy Buddy Squirrel Dudes have some soft prongs in the opening so that it is harder for standard kibble to fall out, we normally cut these soft prongs off as it makes it easier to stuff the Squirrel Dude. To make these extra special to the dogs and to provide entertainment for dog, we suggest that these are only given when owner is out and then taken away when owner comes home - an additional bonus doing this is that the dog starts to see the owner leaving the home as a bonus, helping to prevent separation anxiety. The Busy Buddy range also features a whole lot of other options as in the pictures on the side. These can all be purchased from Pet Systems Stuffing Recipes The beauty of these recipes is that Volunteers and staff can make the majority of them at home, and even freeze them and then bring through to the shelter when visiting.
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We are absolutely delighted to announce that Pet Systems have donated Busy Buddy Squirrel Dudes for the dogs that are part of the FODS Shelter Initiative and have also hosted the TOY DRIVE so that we can help to provide stimulation for the rest of the dogs in the shelter. Thank You Pet Systems Team!
Busy Buddy Chuckle - these can be stuffed full of kibble
Busy Buddy Barnacle - these have 3 different size containers on them which can be stuffed with different recipes and sizes of treats.
Enjoy a new twist on a classic toy! The durable nylon and rubber Jack holds Busy Buddy® natural rawhide treat ring refills for longer lasting playtime. Watch your dog chew, bite, and twist the Jack to figure out how to get the delicious treats in the middle. Treat rings can be placed in multiple locations to increase the challenge over time. You can also smear peanut butter in the ridges for additional enjoyment.
Kibble Nibble Feeder Ball - these are great and can be stuffed with kibble. As the dog pushes them, they roll around dispensing pieces of kibble which keeps the dog motivated and busy
The Tug-a-Jug provides a multi-sensory appeal to keep your dog engaged and motivated to play. Its unique design allows dogs to see, smell and hear the treats as they roll around in the jug. The Tug-a-Jug not only dispenses treats, it can also be used for obedience training and feeding meals. Treats and dry food dispense as the toy is tipped, tugged and rolled.
The durable nylon and rubber Nobbly Nubbly™ provides multiple treat options for longer lasting playtime. Use with Busy Buddy® treat rings or fill the grooves with your dog’s favourite spreadable treat, such as peanut butter or cheese. Perfect for dogs who like to chew, the Nobbly Nubbly™ rewards them for appropriate chewing with their favourite treat.
The Twist and Treat can be filled with treats and adjusted as well so you can start with a wider gap and adjust as the dog gets used to it.
The patented Treat Meter™ allows treats to be randomly dispensed as the toy is “wagged” and shaken. Its super flexible middle makes the Waggle a fun toy for all puppies and dogs.
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De-stressing your dog
TTouch & Acupressure Stroking
TTouch is one of the most amazing modalities I have ever come across and it is my personal belief (and of all those that practice and have learnt this modality, without exception), that each and every owner should learn the basic TTouch as it makes such an impact on behaviour, physically and emotional. Additionally, dogs just love it and it deepens the bond between dog and owner. Ifor now here are two basic TTouches for you to work with and also some of the Acupressure points you can use to reduce stress.
You can do these simple touches several times a day and do choose a time when your dog tends to be quieter. Two very simple TTouches for you to do as well as a some Acupressure Stroking which will help to reduce tension. If you can do consider learning the basics of TTouch as it can make such a difference in de-stressing the dog, with all physical concerns, behaviour concerns and really deepens the bond between person and dog. Contact www.ttouch.co.za for further information.
TTouch & Acupressure Stroking
TTouch is one of the most amazing modalities I have ever come across and it is my personal belief (and of all those that practice and have learnt this modality, without exception), that each and every owner should learn the basic TTouch as it makes such an impact on behaviour, physically and emotional. Additionally, dogs just love it and it deepens the bond between dog and owner. Ifor now here are two basic TTouches for you to work with and also some of the Acupressure points you can use to reduce stress.
You can do these simple touches several times a day and do choose a time when your dog tends to be quieter. Two very simple TTouches for you to do as well as a some Acupressure Stroking which will help to reduce tension. If you can do consider learning the basics of TTouch as it can make such a difference in de-stressing the dog, with all physical concerns, behaviour concerns and really deepens the bond between person and dog. Contact www.ttouch.co.za for further information.
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Noah’s March:
This is used to start a session and serves to acquaint you with the dog and allows you to pick up any areas that are sensitive. At the end of a session it serves to connect all the areas that have been worked on. |
How To:
Follow the contours of the body with your hands and held flat covering all areas of the body and starting from the head towards the tail and don’t forget to include the legs and tails |
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Ear TTouch:
Is one of the most important things you can do for your pet. Even a few minutes working on the ears can be beneficial. Also helpful for relaxation, stress, digestion, fatigue, circulation, car sickness. |
How To:
Holding the ear between thumb and fingers, stroke gently from the base of the ears right up too - and just over the tip of the ear. Always go in the direction the ear takes naturally. |
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Acupressure Stroking
Until your learn how to do TTouch, here are a few acupressure strokes that you can do which influence certain Acupressure points and will help the dog to relax. Depending on the size of the dog, you will stroke gently with either one, two or three fingers.
Until your learn how to do TTouch, here are a few acupressure strokes that you can do which influence certain Acupressure points and will help the dog to relax. Depending on the size of the dog, you will stroke gently with either one, two or three fingers.
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Yin Tang. This is found in the midline of the head just above the eyes. If you stroke slowly over this area you will feel a slight indent. This helps dogs with mental focus and clarity.
Yang Tang – This is found about one fingers width on the outside of the eye where the upper and lower eyelids meet. Helps with fears and anxiety and anxiety related behaviour such as excessive barking to mention just one GV20 – Found in the middle of the top of a dogs head about halfway between front edges of the ears. If your dog has a prominent occipital bump, it will be just in front of this. This is one of the main calming points on a dog and helps to calm the mind. Great for fear, anxiety, reactive behaviour. |
Bai Hui – dogs love having a good scratch in this area – they know better than us! It helps to generate energy along the spine and hind legs so great for helping older dogs. Also a very good calming point. You will find this in the middle of the back, between the hips (sacrum area) and the area feels flat to the touch and you can’t feel the spinous process underneath. |
Do Dogs Grieve?
We grieve for those we have lost, including our pets - what about dogs - does grief affect them? |
Choosing a shelter dog.
There are so many dogs to choose from and this in itself can be overwhelming. Read a bit about what to think about and look for so that this process will be easier and you are more likely to find your perfect match. |
Does Your Humping Dog Make Your Face Turn Red?
Many neutered dogs perform this embarrassing social faux-"paw", not because they're being amorous or trying to dominate, but because they are socially inept . |