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Rabies!

20/11/2012

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Rabies!

If there was ever a disease to strike fear into the hearts and minds of pet owners everywhere, rabies is it!

Rabies is a deadly viral disease that can infect any warmblooded mammal. It is one of the earliest diseases to ever be recorded, dating back to almost 2000 B.C. Rabies is found worldwide, except in a few countries like Great Britain and Japan, which have strict laws designed to keep themselves rabies -free. The incidence of rabies within the United States varies with each state, depending upon the normal fauna of that state and on existing rabies vaccination laws.

Rabies Hosts

It is estimated that over 80 percent of all rabies cases occur in wildlife, with the remaining rabies cases spilling over into the domestic pet and livestock population. It is these latter groups that pose the greatest rabies threat to public health. Wildlife rabies most commonly shows up in skunks, raccoons, coyotes, foxes, and bats. Opossums are relatively resistant to rabies virus and rarely become infected. Rodents, such as rats, mice, and squirrels are not significant carriers of rabies either, since most don't survive encounters with rabies infected animals in the first place.

Skunk rabies is most prevalent in the Midwest, Southwest, and California; raccoon rabies in the MidAtlantic and Southeastern United States; fox rabies in the Eastern states; and bat rabies is a problem in all states. Most rabies cases in wildlife seem to occur during the spring and fall months of the year. The rabies virus is usually transmitted via the infected saliva of affected animals through bite wounds or contamination of open wounds or mucous membranes with the same saliva.

Rabies is uniformly fatal once contracted. Dogs are a major vector for transmission of rabies to humans. Studies have shown that rabies occurs at a higher incidence in younger dogs, the median age being about one year. In addition, due to roaming and territorial instincts, intact male dogs are at greater risk of exposure to rabies than are females. Cats are often exposed to rabies through their nighttime roaming activities. Cats have also been known to catch rabies infected bats that enter homes or attics, exposing themselves and in some instances, family members, to the rabies virus in the process.

The Three Stages of Rabies

Traditionally, when speaking of rabies, most people visualize a snarling, frothing dog snapping at anything in sight. While this is true in some instances of rabies, pet owners should understand that this represents only one of three stages of rabies that are part of the overall disease process. Depending upon each individual rabies case, viciousness might take on a prominent role, or might not occur at all.

The three stages of rabies include the prodromal stage, the furious stage, and the dumb or paralytic stage. The first stage of rabies, lasting from one to three days, is characterized by a change in the overall behavior of the animal. Normally friendly dogs might suddenly exhibit aggressive tendencies towards their owners or towards other pets in the household. Affected individuals might also hide a lot, preferring to be left alone, and becoming upset when disturbed. Loss of appetite with rabies might become apparent, and owners might notice an increased sexual arousal and/or frequency of urination involving their pet.

Once the prodromal stage of rabies is complete, the rabies victim then enters into the furious stage. This is the stage of rabies most persons equate with a traditional rabies presentation. Dogs and cats in this rabies stage often become quite restless, excitatory, and aggressive, losing fear of natural enemies. They might wander about aimlessly, snapping and biting at anything that moves. Rabies may cause the character of the pet's vocalizations to change. In dogs especially, pica, or an abnormal desire to eat anything within reach (i.e., rocks, wire, dirt, feces, etc.), might become apparent with this rabies stage.

As the disease caused by rabies enters the third stage, the swallowing reflex becomes paralyzed, making it impossible to eat, drink, or swallow saliva. This is what accounts for the excessive drooling seen in animals infected with rabies. The furious stage of rabies might last for up to a week before progressing into stage three, the paralytic stage of rabies. Owners should be aware of the fact that some animals, especially dogs, might skip the furious stage of rabies entirely, going directly from the prodromal stage into the paralytic stage of rabies. When this happens, rabies can be easily mistaken for other nervous system disorders. Because this quick transition can occur, the risk of human exposure to the rabies is greatly increased.

The paralytic stage of rabies presents itself as a general loss of coordination and paralysis. Animals infected with rabies may exhibit a droopy lower jaw with the mouth simply hanging open. Rabies induced paralysis and death usually overtakes the unfortunate animal in a matter of hours.

Rabies Diagnosis

Rabies should be suspected anytime a dog or cat exhibits behavioral changes with unexplained, abnormal nervous system signs. Unfortunately, the only way to definitively diagnose is to have a laboratory analysis performed on the animal's brain tissue, which means of course, euthanasia of the pet.

Preventing Rabies

There is no known treatment for rabies; as a result, stringent rabies control and vaccination measures are a must. All puppies and kittens should receive a rabies immunization between three and four months of age. In most states, a licensed veterinarian must administer this rabies vaccine. Depending on the rabies vaccine used and on the state in which you live, a booster rabies immunization is required every one to three years. Owing to the public health implications of rabies, pet owners who fail to keep their pets current on their rabies vaccinations are putting their own health at risk!

Other preventive control measures that can be taken to safeguard against rabies include discouraging free roaming, especially at night, and keeping all pets restrained on a leash when walking outside. Repairing or constructing fences and enclosures to help keep wild animals and potential carriers of rabies out of a pet's play area or living area will also help reduce chances of rabies exposure.

What If?

If a stray or wild animal bites a dog or cat already vaccinated for rabies, a booster rabies immunization should be administered within 36 hours. The pet should also be placed in rabies quarantine for a minimum of 90 days, unless the particular animal that did the biting can be found and its rabies status confirmed as negative. If the pet is bitten by a known carrier of rabies and has never been vaccinated for rabies before, only two options exist: 1) Quarantine the pet for at least six months in an approved rabies quarantine facility, or 2) euthanize the pet. Obviously, neither of these options are good ones.

Laws in most states spell out regulations concerning rabies vaccinations, bites involving humans, and the ownership of wildlife in order to curb the impact of rabies. Any rabies vaccinated pet that bites a human must be placed in rabies quarantine for a minimum of ten days to observe for signs of rabies. If suspicious signs appear, the animal is euthanized and samples are sent to the laboratory to confirm or dispel the rabies diagnosis. If the pet has not had a rabies vaccine in the past, or if a wild animal is involved, euthanasia and prompt laboratory examination of the brain tissue for rabies virus is warranted.

Finally, if a pet has been vaccinated for rabies, but is over-due on the rabies booster, rabies quarantine or euthanasia may be elected, depending on how over-due the pet is and the wishes of the person who was bitten. Euthanasia of rabies suspects should be carried out only by veterinarians or other public health and/or wildlife officials to ensure that the samples that reach the lab have been properly handled and stored. Any person bitten by an animal should contact his/her physician. Prophylactic rabies treatment may be started on the bitten individual until the rabies quarantine period is over or until the specific laboratory test results are in.

It is interesting to note that because the concentration of the rabies virus in an infected dog's saliva might be low or even absent in some cases, less than 50 percent of all bites from rabies infected dogs will result in the transmission of the disease. Yet because there is no way of knowing which bites fit into this category, prophylactic rabies treatment is a must, just to be on the safe side!

Ownership of wild animals, especially skunks and raccoons, should be avoided. First, there are no licensed rabies vaccines available for these "wild" pets. Secondly, because the rabies incubation period can last for months, owners might be exposing themselves to rabies right from the start without knowing it. Finally, in many states, it is against the law to own wildlife without a permit.

A Final Word To Parents About Rabies

Parents should always discourage children from interacting with stray animals or wildlife. Their natural curiosity could lead to a serious bite wound and much anxiety, especially if the offender is not found.



Courtesy of http://www.veterinaryinsider.com/public/Rabies.cfm





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"But he'll always do it for food ..."

14/11/2012

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Chronicles of a Dog Trainer


"But he'll always do it for food ..."

One huge question I often get is -- "How do I get him to do it without food, he'll always do it for food?!"   There are a few reasons why dogs will only work when food is around, there are also myths about why some trainers will not use food because they  believe that reliability won't come without the use of food. The truth is that there are people winning national titles for different sports and obedience, and they started with food or rewards of some kind.  In a competition you cannot use anything but your skills and the dog's ability to carry out what you have taught him, which proves that any dog can be trained reliably with food ... when doneproperly.  This means that they learn the behaviors and understand them, and will perform them regardless of the presence of food.

Please note: This isn't a black and white, "these are the only reasons dogs will only work when food is around" list.  There can be many other reasons why dogs will seemingly only work for food.  I've just listed some of the most prominent reasons, in my opinion. 

Let's discuss reasons why dogs will work for food but will not if food is not present.

1) Luring without properly fading the lure.
2) Bribing.
3) It's the only reward ever presented.
4) Training wasn't carried out properly.

1) OVER-LURING.  I see this often because luring when training works.  I use luring myself.  However, you have to know when to fade the lure and how to do it properly. It's simple, really, it just has to be done pretty quickly and the behavior you are wanting to achieve needs to be put on stimulus control.  In simple terms, "stimulus control" means that the dog knows the behavior and will reliably perform it on cue.  So if you ask your dog to lie down he'll do so, within a second or two, and won't do another behavior instead.  Some dogs will sit when asked to lie down or will lie down when asked to sit. This means the dog doesn't really know the cue and it is not under stimulus control.  This happens when the verbal and/or hand signal is added to soon or is "taught" by repeating the cue over and over and over until the dog does it.  It can also happen if the dog is punished (a leash jerk, pushed into place or maybe even spoken to sternly o
r harshly) for not performing the cue before the dog reliably understands what is being asked of him.

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Introducing a new puppy or dog to your resident dog:

5/11/2012

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(Some good tips and also on stopping fights from Rescue.com, link at bottom)

Dogs are social animals and most enjoy the company of other dogs. However, it can be tricky to introduce a new puppy or dog into the family. The resident dog may not be accustomed to having other dogs in his home or he may not appreciate having to share your attention. First impressions are important, so you’ll need to do what you can to maximize the chances of success.

If your dog has a history of fighting with other dogs, please consult with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Veterinary Behaviorist, or Certified Professional Dog Trainer before introducing the new dog.

Preparation
Before you bring the new puppy or dog home, remove anything your resident dog might guard, such as food bowls, bones, chew toys, toys, and beds. Even if your dog has never exhibited possessive tendencies before, it is best to exercise caution. If your home is cluttered, clean it up. Congested areas are more likely to trigger aggression because the dogs may feel forced upon each other.

The Initial Meeting: Before You Bring the New Dog Home
Enlist the help of a family member or friend, so there is a person to attend to each dog during this initial meeting. Make your way, separately, to a neutral area, such as a park. An open area in the park is perfect because there are plenty of interesting sights and sounds to distract the dogs and they can move away from each other if they choose. It is best not to introduce the dogs in your house or yard because the resident dog may become territorial.

Bring the dogs together and allow them to greet each other. Do your best to keep slack in the leashes (or let the leashes drop) so the dogs won’t feel like they are being held back. Allow them to sniff. A puppy will typically adopt a submissive position, such as lying down or even rolling over to be investigated by the adult dog. A well-socialized adult dog will likely check out the puppy and then either play with him or ignore him. When two adult dogs meet, they often stand tall and “posture” to each other. They may sniff each other, circle each other, urinate, play, or just decide to ignore each other. Don’t panic if they push each other a bit, growl, or even try standing up on each other’s shoulders. Allow them to do what they do to establish a relationship, with as little intervention from you as possible.

If the dogs try to fight, however, you will need to intervene. If you see signs of serious tension, such as raised hackles, growling, showing teeth, prolonged stares, or snapping, call the dogs away before things escalate. Try not to pull them away by the leash, as the tension on the leash might trigger an attack. If the dogs won’t come away on their own, wave a treat in front of each dog’s nose and then lure them to turn away from each other.

Keep the interactions brief at first. After the dogs greet, go for a walk together. If you have multiple dogs, introduce each dog to the newcomer separately before bringing everyone together as a group.

Bringing the New Dog Home
Walk home from the park with the dogs together and just walk into your home as though nothing has changed. If you have a yard, go there first and let the dogs off leash to hang out while you supervise. When the dogs are ready, bring them into the house. If they got along well at the park and in the yard, let the resident dog off the leash first. Permit the new puppy or dog to explore the room or house on the leash. If the resident dog acts in a friendly manner, let the new pet off the leash.

Always supervise interactions between the dogs until they have been friendly with each other for one to two weeks. They should not be alone together before them. Keep your mealtime, bedtime, walk and play routines the same as before the new dog arrived, so things don’t seem too different for the resident dog.

For the first few weeks, keep an eye on the dogs in situations that might trigger aggression, such as when you come home, when guests come over, going out to the yard, coming in from the yard, preparing to go for a walk, mealtime (theirs and yours), and playtime.

It is very important that you spend time with each dog alone so that the resident dog continues to receive one-on-one attention and the new dog develops a bond with you. If you only hang out with the dogs together, they will become attached primarily to each other, rather than to you. The new dog needs to bond with you.

WHAT NOT TO DO:
- Do not hold the puppy in your arms for the adult dog to greet. This may cause the puppy to feel trapped and threatened. Instead, stand with your feet slightly apart so the puppy can take refuge between your feet if he feels overwhelmed. Do not permit the older dog to trample, bowl over, or otherwise intimidate the puppy.
- Do not put the dogs in small spaces together, such as a car, crate or small room, before they are completely comfortable with each other. Each dog should have his or her own food bowl, bed, and toys. Place the food bowls far apart until the dogs are relaxed when eating together. Do not allow one dog to intimidate the other so that one dog abandons his food. Teach each dog to eat from his own bowl and leave the other bowls alone, even after everyone is finished.
- If a fight breaks out, DO NOT let them “fight it out.” You may have heard this popular advice, but permitting the dogs to continue a fight can set the tone for a difficult relationship. Interrupt and separate the dogs if they begin to fight or if one dog beats up on the other dog. It is always better to interrupt fighting so the dogs do not develop a pattern of aggressive behavior.

How should fighting dogs be separated?
Get the dogs apart however you can, while doing your best to not be bitten in the process. It is quite common for owners to be bitten breaking up a fight, often by their own dog. Your first action should be to shriek and yell—this works with many dogs. If the dogs are on leash, pull them apart but be aware that you may inadvertently cause the dogs to injure each other as some tend to clamp down with their jaws to resist the pull. If the dogs are off leash, try getting behind one, grabbing him by the body, and lifting him off the ground. Sometimes, the feeling of being airborne causes the dog to stop fighting. Be very careful because this strategy places you in a vulnerable position! If you can’t grab them, try grasping the aggressor by the tail, ear, or testicles. Pinch hard to encourage the dog to turn away from his opponent and toward you, but be ready to jump back if the dog turns to bite you. If one dog is locked onto the other, you may need to pry the dog’s jaws open with your hands or with a stick. Another option is to use your fingers to temporarily cut off the dog’s breath by placing pressure against his windpipe. Spraying the dogs with a water hose or blasting them with an air horn or Direct Stop citronella spray can also be effective

http://asnpr.rescuegroups.org/info/display?PageID=1804

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This is absolutely wonderful! Brilliant trainer and a bunch of bright dogs having fun!

2/11/2012

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